Mary De, the final chapter

OK, it's time to finish Mary De. In my last post we finished by drawing in the armhole curve and pulling the gathering thread to the inside of this drawn in line. Now stitch right over the drawn line, trying not to stretch or distort the smocking. For safety, stitch it twice. Be very careful NOT to stitch over your gathering thread as you will need it for final adjustment. Next cut out the armhole close to the stitching. In the photo below, the yellow thread is my gathering thread.

Now it is time to apply the piping to the yoke, paying attention to the seam allowance, which is 1/2 inch where the smocking is attached to the yoke, and where the back skirts are attached to the back yokes. All other seam allowances are 1/4 inch. After the piping is stitched to the yoke press it with the seam allowance toward the yoke. Now place the smocked piece under the yoke to make the final adjustment of the smocked piece to the exact measurement of the yoke. NOW tie off the gathering thread to this measurement and adjust pleats evenly.  Then apply "Wonder Tape" to the seam allowance of the yoke, trying to place it out of the way of where you will be stitching.

Next place the yoke over the smocked skirt, very carefully placing it exactly where you want it. You must be mindful of the 1/2 inch seam allowance, but you will be able to place it very accurately. Press down to stick it to the skirt. Next flip the yoke down and stitch with the yoke side up. If you have a three groove foot this step is easy because your piping can ride in one of the grooves and you will be able to stitch right up close to your piping and keep the stitching consistent. Wonder Tape will dissolve with washing, but if you want you can remove it now, as long as you have not stitched over it. NOW you can remove the gathering thread. Do you see why this gathering row is so important?  Grade your seam allowance.

 The next steps of the dress are pretty straight forward. The only other tricky part involves a typical Children's Corner "Stitch and Turn" technique that is puzzling, but it works. Smocking patterns of yesteryear were very scant on instructions, and most have not been corrected or updated. I think the newer patterns have more detailed instruction. Anyhoo, once you have stitched your neck and back yoke lie your dress out like this.

Now you need to stitch the armholes. Bring right front to right back, right sides together, encasing the entire dress between. It will look like this.

Double stitch the armhole, trim and clip the curve. Next pull the backs through to the front. NOW. at this point I guarantee you will think you have done something wrong because the dress is still wrong side out! But alas, there is one more step! Pull the one back through to the front and VOILA! You have done it! Repeat for the second side. I really tried to take pictures of this turning business, but they just looked like a bunch of fabric. One other pattern detail. The button holes on the newer patterns are vertical; they should be horizontal. Button holes are always in the direction of the stress that will be placed on the garment, with the exception of a shirt or dress front with a placket. Here is my dress, minus a hem. I really need to try this dress on my girl before hemming. As usual I will also do a grow tuck.

As I have said, I have made dozens of Mary De. If you have not and you still find it daunting, even after these (hopefully) helpful instructions, there is another pattern alternative. Bonnie Blue has this pattern with several variations, one of which is smocked. The back is just like Mary De. I have not made it yet, but it is certainly worth a try. The instructions may be more detailed.

 This is the smocking plate I used, or at least a portion of it.

It is a Grace Knott plate. If you have seen her plates, you may find the colors off-putting and the designs dense and with too many rows. However, they are a fabulous resource. Change up the colors and use only selected rows. The stitch combinations are really quite beautiful. Check out the Grace Knott website. The company is run by Grace's grandson, with Judith Marquis as their designer. Lots to offer on the website including a plate of the month! Also check out Grace Knott's story featured in Creative Needle July/August 1997. She came to Canada in 1930 as a war bride. Quite a story about her, her family and the business.

Now on to Christmas projects! Vivi will wear a bishop dress that was Adelaide's. A new dress for the big girl. Just a basic yoke in a fine red and white stripe. I have made Vivi two dresses just for her this year, but since the use of Christmas dresses is a bit limited, she gets a gently used dress this year. Here is the bishop dress.

OHHHHH! I just came across this photo of Vivi in her "going home" outfit! Grandchildren really do make growing old worthwhile! I promise to post pictures of Sammy soon.